Saturday, 27 April 2013

PACHHEDI AND BORI: INDIGENOUS TEXTILE CRAFT OF SURENDRANAGAR



Indian culture is wide and it is impossible to speak about any one, although there are deep cultural continuities that tie its people together. In India each region and each group of people has developed  a distinct style of its own that is rooted in local tradition. Handicrafts, is one of the thread that is woven into the life of people and has developed certain common characteristics in them. The crafts of India present both the widest canvas of creative activity and the broadest spectrum of development. It is described as the craft of people, which means skills are not in the hand of individuals but have speeded, spread and taken root through time, through generations, through communities and served as a vehicle of self expression for they revealed a conscious aesthetic approach. The artisan and craft people of India holds in their hands, albeit unknowingly, a vast reservoir of talent and artistry which then flows out into the world. They were in manner reverenced as an important part of our rich cultural heritage.




Pride is supposed to be
One of the deadly sinse
In the eye of pure.
 
And yet in our country generations after generations,
Our ancestors took pride in the achievement of the craftsmen,
Who made fabric for Nagarakas and Nayikas to wear,
As it gave them dignity and self- respect.
 
And it was the pride in costumes worn,
That brought skill of millions of weavers, dyers and printers,
The creation of fabric from the earliet times.
 
We do not know when the threads were first passed
by the shuttle through the warp.
 
-Mulk Raj Anand




The dry deserted land full of dazzling colours and unique handicraft products, Saurashtra – a Kathiawad peninsula is the poster child for Gujarati diversity. Saurashtra is situated in the west of Gujarat. The welcoming gateway of Saurashtra is Surendranagar. Numerous famous crafts like weaving, embroidery, tie dyeing, pottery and brass work are seen in Surendranagar district. Pachhedi and Bori weaving is the craft which is only practiced in this district. These textiles are draped as lower garment by the Bharwad community males  all over Gujarat and Rabari community males of Kutch. Striking dark colours are adopted by youths while silmpler and subdued whites are for elder generation in Bharwads.


..in all his machoism Bharwad men attired in vibrant Bori





..Exuberant Raas at Tarnetar fair in traditional attire





 The Pachhedi and Bori  weaving craft is still being carried out at secluded villages of Saurashtra. A detailed documentation has been carried out under the aegis of the department of Clothing and Textiles, Faculty of Family and Community Sciences, The Maharaja Sayajorao University of Baroda. The documentation was carried out with an intention to preserve and treasure rural know how technology of producing these bright folk textiles. With the aim of popularizing craft at wider platform, the researcher brings forth here the glimpses of this vibrant craft and its producers..  

...a lady winding yarn on bobbin

 

 

 

...creel containing warp yarns for pegging 




...pegging of warps done

 

 

 

...warping process

 

 

 

 ... warps are ready to get woven

 

 

 

...formation of  traditional motif

 

 

 

... traditional motif formed

 

 

 

... an amused man weaving on hath shal (fly shuttle pit loom)

 

 

 

...final woven pachhedis and boris




  

A bunch of Krishna Followers, Residing in this vibrant land
Making a colourful living with dazzling coloured band
Weaving little threads of culture strong,
Taking to the world of contemporary along
Running along the desert belt,
Leaving behind their mark as felt
In their hope lie their work of past,
Putting it in words is so little to be done at last.
- Akshata Naik



The department is carrying out further developmental initiative research work for the sustenance and propagation of this identified dying craft..

The researcher wishes to duly acknowledge the head of the department- Prof.(Dr.) Anjali Karolia, Ms. Vandana Chauhan (Guide), Dr. Madhu Sharan and Ms. Shruti Tomar for their unending support, guidance and encouragement throughout the study. Also, to my innocent, privileged and skilled respondents for showing their immense enthusiasm and willingness to support me during research work.

For further details contact:

Guide: Ms. Vandana Chauhan
Associate Professor,
Dept. of Clothing & Textiles,
Faculty of Family and Community Sciences,
The Maharaja Sayajirao University of Baroda
Vadodara
Email:chauhanvandana60@yahoo.in

Researcher: Ms. Viralee Trivedi
Student,
Dept. of Clothing & Textiles,
Faculty of Family and Community Sciences,
The Maharaja Sayajirao University of Baroda
Vadodara
Email: trivediviralee@gmail.com